In northeast Nagano prefecture, Nozawa Onsen is known for its hot and cold: an abundance of geothermal pools, or onsen, and powder snow, which drops on the town’s ski resort at an average of 10 meters per year. That’s a boon to Nozawa’s single ski area, which covers 297 hectares of skiable ground in 36 total runs and allows for access to backcountry skiing. Everyone from beginner bunny-slope riders to terrain park rats and expert powder hounds will find runs to their liking. There’s even a network of well-groomed cross-country skiing trails, left over from the 1998 winter Olympics in Nagano.

However, Nozawa Onsen’s true distinguishing factor lies off the slopes. The easily walkable village at the base of the ski area contains family-friendly activities, one of the best après-ski scenes in the country, and more than a dozen public onsen. Most resort villages in Japan require transportation by bus or car, but here, you can reach everything from the ski lifts to the restaurants and bars on foot. And trust us, you’ll want to — that’s the best way to experience the nostalgic, small-town atmosphere and traditional Japanese architecture that make Nozawa Onsen so special.

You should try to learn at least a few basic Japanese phrases to help you get around, as you might not encounter many English speakers here outside of the ski school. But no matter where you go in Nozawa Onsen, you’ll quickly discover just why this resort has developed a global reputation for stellar hospitality.